Who could have thought that this distillery, one of our favourites for its quirky and robust character, could express such finesse with long maturation? A 25 years wait, with the last three in a refill Oloroso cask, has tamed the unruly and muscular whisky from the Isle of Mull a lot: it has almost become gentle, complex and full bodied but also soft and refined. The nose is sunny: so honeyed, rich with cereals, and fresh meadow flowers. Chamomile? Daffodils? Pollen-laden and fragrant. Don’t add water, because it’s full flavoured but delicate: on the palate it tastes just as honeyed, flowery, full of heather in bloom as it smelled. The muscular fullness of the distillery is still there, with the thickness of beeswax and then a huge blast of ripe apricots and oranges… no, wait, a whole fruit salad! This creamy sweetness is matched by firm minerality and tightness. The tannins from the cask and a spicy hint from the sherry start to become evident only in the end. The beast has been tamed: a powerful giant that has learnt to speak gracefully.